Double Reverse Appliqué
Supply List
©2007 Ellen Lindner
NOTES:
- This class is geared toward the intermediate level quilter, who is comfortable with free motion sewing.
Supply List:
Equipment:
Sewing machine that can lower its feed dogs
Presser foot for free motion sewing (darning, big foot, etc.)
Light box (This is integral to the procedure. If you don't have one, you can get by with a window on a sunny day, but a light box makes
things much easier.)
Sharp embroidery scissors (the little ones that are sharp all the way to the tip)
Paper scissors
General sewing supplies, including a seam ripper
Wide tip highlighter – not yellow
Black Sharpie, or other permanent marker, regular tip (not fine)
3+ colored pencils, each a different color
Fabrics, threads, and such:
Sulky Totally Stable (or other lightweight iron-on stabilizer that can be torn away later. See note*)
Thin white fabric (like muslin) for the base, ~ 14" x 16", (36 cm x 41 cm.)
Fabrics: Scroll down to see the color placement chart.
Clear monofilament thread
Medium gray thread (OR threads that loosely match your fabrics)
Class Preparation: (After class enrollment, and printing pattern)
Join two pieces of stabilizer together, to create a piece at least 14 x 16, (36 cm x 41 cm.). (Overlap the pieces and iron the
overlapped area. Pin, on the non-slick side, for security.)
Using a black Sharpie, trace the pattern lines (but not the numbers) onto the non-slick side of the stabilizer.
Finish drawing in the 12” (31 cm) and 13” (33 cm) squares, and the horizontal line. Using a pen or pencil, add the
pattern numbers.
Put the stabilizer, shiny side down, onto the white base fabric. Iron the two together.
Set up your machine with monofilament in the bobbin and gray thread on top. (A half full bobbin will be
enough.) Increase the top tension to approximately 7.
Optional: Iron all fabrics and stack them in order (See the number-color chart on the pattern.)
*Stabilizer note: The purpose of the stabilizer is two-fold. First, the pattern is drawn on it, and later stitched directly onto it. Second, it provides a secure base for stitching. If you can't find Sulky Totally Stable, you can substitute some other LIGHTWEIGHT iron on stabilizer, (not fusible web.) Some of the stabilizer will remain in place when the quilt is complete.
Double Reverse Appliqué, Color Placement Chart for Apple
Red Apple |
Pattern |
Quantity |
Green Apple* |
White |
1 |
Scrap |
White or light yellow |
Yellow (all one fabric) |
2 |
Scrap |
Med-lt Yellow green |
Peach |
3 |
Scrap |
Med. “apple green” (dull lime green) |
Orange (same fabric) |
4,5 |
Scrap |
Another med. “apple green” (or, for less detail, use the same fabric as #3) |
Strong pink OR coral |
6 |
Scrap |
Strong apple green |
Rust (one fabric or two) |
7 |
Scrap |
Med-dk olive green (or, for less detail, use the same fabric as #9) |
Rust (can be the same as #7) |
8 |
Scrap |
Med-dk olive green |
Strong red, medium dark |
9 |
~ 8 x 8 |
Strong lime green, medium or med.-dk. |
Dark brown |
10 |
Scrap |
Very Dark olive green (or, for less detail, use the same fabric as #11) |
Very dark red |
11 |
~ 8 x 8 |
Dark yellow green (more like olive) |
Extremely dark red, almost black |
12 |
~ 8 x 8 |
Extremely dark olive, almost black |
Black (print OK) |
13 Shadow |
~ 10 x 7 |
Black |
Dark brown (can be the same as #10) |
14 Stem |
Scrap |
Dark brown |
Bright green |
15 Top |
~ 14 x 16 |
Fuscia/berry print |
Bright blue |
16 Bottom background |
~ 14 x 16 |
Black and white print |
©2007-2012 Ellen
Lindner
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