Facing

Finishing the edge of a quilt with a facing, rather than a binding, is a very useful alternative. This is especially true when the quilt has an unusual shape. It's also a good option when you don't want the visible line that a binding creates. In addition, using a facing can be considerably faster than a binding, depending on which method you employ.

There are several variations for adding a facing to a quilt. All involve sewing a facing to the front of the quilt, right sides together. The difference is the size and shape of the facing, which affects how the back of the quilt is finished. It's easiest if the quilting is completed before the facing is added.

Method One - the entire back of the quilt is covered. (Sometimes called the pillowcase method.) This is the fastest of the three methods.
- Lay out the facing fabric right side up. Don't try to cut it to size, just make sure it's bigger than the quilt.
- Put the quilt face down on top of the facing. Pin.
- Stitch 1/4" all the way around. Trim the seam allowance of the facing fabric to about 1/2". Trim the backing fabric to about 1/8". (This is called grading a seam. It staggers the width of the various fabrics, to avoid a big bump on the front.) [See photo 1] Trim the corners at an angle. [See photo 2}


Photo 1: Grading the seam	Photo2: Cutting a turning slit

- Cut a slit in the facing to create a turning hole. [See photo 2] Turn the facing to the back. Press.
- Add a label to cover the turning hole. (Note, your previous quilting is now totally covered. To keep all layers fastened - and to keep those judges happy - do some additional quilting.)
Variations:
- Quilt without a backing fabric. The batting will later be covered by the full size facing.
- Before sewing, add a strip of fusible web in the location of the future turning slit. Precut the turning hole. After turning, the slit can be fused closed.
- If you've made garments, you're probably familiar with "understitching." This techinique helps facings roll to the back. It's awkward to add it to quilts, but very helpful.
- Instead of cutting the facing/backing fabric too large, cut it exactly. Sew a hanging sleeve and attach it, by machine, to the backing before sewing the facing on. (A great time saver!)

Method Two - similar to the first method, but without covering the entire back.
- Do everything the same as for method one, until it's time to cut the turning hole. Instead of just cutting a slit, cut away a large piece, leaving a facing that's about 2 1/2" wide. (Optional: Understitch)
- Turn the facing to the back and press.
- Using a needle turn technique, turn under a hem for the facing and hand stitch it to the back.

Method Three - same idea as method 2, but the facing is cut and hemmed before being attached to the quilt. This method requires a little measuring and figuring, but it has two advantages: it avoids the need for needle turn skills, and it often requires less fabric.
- Cut four facing strips about 2 1/2 - 3" wide. To figure their correct lengths, do this:
- Lay the quilt out and lay two facing strips along the length, in their correct positions. Cut them to the length of the quilt. [See photo 3]


Photo 3: The green print strip in the foreground is a long facing strip, laid on top of the quilt, and cut to size.	Photo 4: Another facing strip is laid across the short side. It is cut so that it fills the gap between the previous long pieces, PLUS one inch.

- With the long pieces still laying in place, lay the remaining two facing strips along the short sides, positioning them in the gap created by the long pieces. [See photo 4] These pieces should be perpendicular to the long pieces, even if the edges of the quilt have a different shape. Cut them to fit the remaining gap, plus 1".
- Sew the four pieces together, to create a box. On the inside corners, rip out 1/4" of the seam (or just avoid sewing this initially.) This makes it possible to easily press under a 1/4" hem. [See Photos 5 & 6]


Photo 5: At the inside corners of the facing 1/4" is left free, so that the hem can be easily turned back.	Photo 6: After joining the facing strips, a hem has been ironed.


Photo 7: Quilt and facing positioned for stitching	Photo 8: Back view of faced quilt

- Lay the facing down, right side up. Position the quilt on top, right side down. If the quilt has an unusual shape, the edges will not match. That's okay, as along as the facing extends beyond the quilt, and enough facing width remains for sewing. [See Photo 7]
- Attach the facing as before. (Optional: Understitch) Trim, turn, press, and stitch.
- See Photo 8 to see what the back of your faced quilt will look like. Although the overall shape of the quilt shown is unusual, the facing still has a box shape.

Photo 9: Without understitching, the facing often shows a little.

The facing may show a little, when hung, so choose your facing fabric accordingly. I prefer the facing to closely match the front. If that's not feasible, I make it black or some other dark neutral.

Here are examples of some of my quilts that have been faced: Reconciliation, Blossom Boogie . (Actually, I face nearly all of them. I use Method One, utilizing all four variations. This is super fast!)